The trip to Leh,Ladakh

july 10th, 2011

Day 1:15th July Friday - Flight from Chennai to Delhi  6:35am
           Evening Bus from Delhi to Manali   4.40pm
Day 2:16th Saturday Morning reach Manali - Get hired bikes, prep for ride, check bikes.
Day 3:17th Sunday - Start riding to LEH , stop at keylong.
Day 4:18th Monday - Continue ride, stay at Uphasi.
Day 5:19th Tuesday - Continue ride reach Leh at 8 am.
Day 6: 20th Wednesday - To Pangong tso lake and back.
Day 7: 21st thursday -  Start riding back to Manali, stop at Sarchu.
Day 8: 22nd Friday - Reach Manali.
Day 9: 23rd Saturday - Catch bus to Delhi by evening.
Day 10:24th Sunday - Flight back to Chennai.

Will see you after the trip with more details. 

 

July30th, 2011 Chennai.  12.30 am

I’m back in Chennai in front of my laptop thinking what to type, waiting for the thumping sound of the bullet to echo in my head to get all the memories back. Hoping it comes as I type. 

Manali to Leh road is considered as the Bikers paradise. Any biker would do this ride once in a lifetime. one of the most toughest and riskiest roads in the world. 

On 15th July six of us, Ashwin Naik, Navin Anandhan, Sudeep P, Rijeesh A C, Benoit and Me boarded the Flight (Kingfisher Airlines) from Chennai to Delhi. Deepak joined us at Delhi from Mumbai. From the airport we took the direct Metro line to the city. We caught the metro train got down at Shivaji Stadium and took a walk to Connaught Place and found that our boarding point for the bus happened to be a little bit far away. So we took a hotel room for Rs 400 in Paharganj, which was the boarding point in the tickets and then figured out the exact stop was Jan Path after calling the bus operator. Spent time in the hotel, got fresh, waited till evening and headed for the bus stop in 2 cabs at Rs.350. We were quiet early for the bus so Ashwin, Benoit and Me took a walk to visit the India Gate and RASHTRAPATHI BHAVAN. Got back just in time for the bus. Boarded the bus by 5, in ten to fifteen minutes the bus left Delhi. Stopped in one of the Dhabas where we got roti, dal, aloo, lassi. Delhi to Manali route is Delhi - Panipat - Kurukshethra - Chandighar - Bhramana - Bhunter - Kullu - Manali. Through NH 1,21A,88 & 21. Early morning they stopped for tea much before Manali on the hill climb. Climate started changing and got colder from there on. The view from there was great with large mountains. Landscapes were beautiful from there on till the end of the trip. Stopped at a restaurant in Kullu for breakfast, there we had Poha. Reached Manali soon and took a walk through Manali town and saw some nice shops of buying winter cloths. Reached Hotel Himagiri where we had booked the room early in April. Checked in and freshened up. By noon went to Tiger-Eye Adventure to get our bike we booked through Mr. Raj from visitmanali.com. Met Akbar and Prakash from TigerEye, the mechanic and the owner of the bikes. Had a ride on the 500s, had a good check overall, got it repaired on whatever was necessary. Bike was in just OK condition but engine was sounding good so decided to go with it. Stepped into a nearby hotel, had lunch from there and set back to the hotel Himagiri where we stayed with the bikes. Rested well at night, getting ready for the big day.

              We started with 4 500cc bullets and 7 guys from Manali on 17th July morning with an aim to ride till Leh and come back to Manali on 22nd to catch our bus to Delhi. Every piece of landscape was looking green and beautiful with some snow on top of the mountains in the morning. Had breakfast just a few km after Manali. Though there was slight drizzling and the roads were wet we had a good start. Everyone got used to the bikes and was all set to do the rest 475km to Leh. Started riding from there through the greens of Himachal Pradesh. We were gaining altitude as we rode. The Climb to Rotang La was good till we hit roadblock and 2feet slush all the way up till Rotang La. The traffic block started at 2 am and all the vehicles were piling up since morning. We reached there by 8 am and were stuck there till 5pm. The climb through the slush was really a physical challenge for the bikes and us too. Here we really wished we had a better bike that would survive the stretch. Problems with the bike started from there on. Ashwin's bike had a problem with the clutch riding into the slushy road and was not starting after that, the kicker was jammed, so we put it on a truck and took it till Keylong where we had the next mechanic on the way to Leh. In that climatic condition where it is cold and the oxygen is low@13000 feet, we had a tough time lifting a 500cc bullet and putting it in a truck. Was panting badly, Ashwin decided to travel in the jeep with the bike he was riding. We put our entire luggage and fuel cans onto the jeep as the ride would be better with lesser weight, as the slush was very high. Some of the bikers coming down told us that the road gets worse from there on till we reach Rotang La. Well it was worse than we expected, the slush level went up and it got colder and was blinded by the mist. You try to step on the ground your leg would go through the slush till your knee and might not come back with your shoes if u haven’t tied it properly. The pillion riders Deepak, Rijeesh and Benoit decided to walk uphill as it was difficult to ride with the pillion through the mud and slush. Well when they said uphill I thought they meant they were taking the road that we were taking the bikes through. But Benoit found a real short cut which took them vertically up the mountain in 10 minutes, while the road for the bikes and cars went zig zag. We lost sight of them in a few seconds, then three of us Sudeep, Navin and Me rode through the slush till the top. There was no easy way to get through; the best way was to follow the tire tracks of the trucks in front of you. Sudeep and Me hit the top, but we missed Navin and on the way met Benoit and Rijeesh on the top, who have been waiting there for a while. Deepak joined Navin in between. The pillions boarded, by around 5 pm we reached Rotang La after all the bad roads and traffic with arms and legs shaking cos of tiredness and the cold. Realized we still had a long way to go. We had some tea from Rotang La; the tea was getting cold by the time it reached us from the kettle. The air was really cold. Beniot's hair started getting frozen in the breeze. Waited for Navin and Deepak till it started getting dark, then we slowly started moving down. We got out of the mist by climbing down and waited for them on clear roads, Navin and Deepak joined us in no time. Time was 6.30pm and there was broad daylight after Rotang La. The mist and the clouds make it look really dark.  No wonder they call it the Valley of the dead - ROTANG LA... Continued riding with 3 bikes by 7.30pm and we lost the sunlight but we kept riding through the night eating dust till Keylong. Stopped for the day at Keylong in Hotel Sumarila around 10.30pm. Hotel Sumrila has a great view from the balcony where they have a restaurant on it. The conditions of the bikes were not that good after the Fight with mud and slush. We went down to the town to locate a workshop; well it was closed by then. So decided to come back in the morning. Came back to hotel checked in, Rooms were not very expensive got it for like 1000 for 2 rooms. And they served us nice roti and dal for dinner. Well Ashwin was still in the truck traveling with his bike. Tried calling him but his phone was not in network area. So we messaged him our location and waited for his call, and around 12am he called from the driver’s phone saying he is still about 50km from Keylong. Well they started very late from there, all the trucks and other four wheelers started moving only at 8pm, so they would be starting only the next day morning as visibility became zero. We were all happy to locate Ashwin and to know he has made it out of the block and slush.  

Tuff maneuvering of bike in the slush for 5 to 6 hours had tired our muscles, 2feet deep slush getting on our pants and shoes covered with wet mud plus the oxygen level falling down as we climbed up, had quite a tough day. Finally stopped for the day at Hotel Sumrila.

            Next morning by around 8 Ashwin reached Keylong and we put his bike for repair and all the other bikes too. Ashwin had a long night and a pretty different experience from what we had with the bike, as he was riding in the back of the jeep through the cold night. I think you should hear it from him to know what happened after that.

This is what he wrote:

Ashwin Naik 15/10/11 Bengeluru 

"Rohtang" - Valley of Death, Was a real death for my bike.

Slurping my tires through the slush was fun initially with time passing i was sucked in with my bike and i draining Fuel and Energy alike. Far were others gushing smoke from their exhaust i even was not able to get a glimpse as my bike slowed where as my heart beat increased with adrenalin rushing through my blood i was ready to fall on my face flat in mud.

I was trying to keep myself in expedition by following the tyre marks of Army trucks, which passed way ago. My chances were dipping to cross the Great pass before eve. Bike slowed, Clutch was not working Wobbling tires it was sad for a moment though but wait this is the real experience I am here for

My best friend for the trip aka MY DSLR was capturing the calm windy pass in his memory

And at last it happened ... We stood by the corner waiting for a helping hand to pull us out of the muddy burrow we were in. Vehicles were honking behind us Suddenly realising people were there and we need to step side for them to enjoy.  Soon Team realised that we are stuck downhill and they rushed for helping hand. Thomas and Naveen as usual the first ones on inspection scene tried their mechanical tourney But in vain these moments were some friends creating moments for both of us (Me and My bike)

Bikers across south India were our primary foes and the same followed with no state bias

Finally the decision to save the cancer in the group came " I WILL CARRY MY BIKE ON A TRUCK “. Good news another 25 kilometers we have an angel waiting for us None other " The Mechanic".  Thomas and me started walking toward the endless queue standing on one side of pass to get a lift

Finally the deal with Mr. Kalia.. Funny the name just like Old Hindi movie Dacoit He agreed to give a lift... Getting the Bullet onboard was the craziest thing. With the weight and tired hand it felt like impossible Things, which kept us going, are the Hurrah’s.

Queue was so big that moving through was like ant's overtaking us Rest of team smoked away and I was finally sitting on the boot of truck over my bike which was tied to the bars Felt like I was driving a bullock cart at 70Kmph

Night fell so did the temperature ... My gloves were just plain clothes covering my hands... Hungry No one around watching other bullets guzzle through and most of all deep freezing winds hitting my eyes were like moments of truth for me... For some time i felt the loneliness in Life... But no as what I am made of I was committed to bounce back and enjoy the situation Kalia drove very sophisticatedly through the roughest terrain I have ever gone Many vehicles were stuck in slush He gave " GAALIS" and stomped through We decided not to reach keylong that day as terrain was very bad with weather taking its toll.. Decided to halt in a place where truckers halted

OH MY GOD... Kudos to you truckers to sleep near heap of cig buds and cockroaches running haywire I BEGGED Kalia " Bhai main gaadi main so jatha hoon" apne dosth logon ka zamman bhi pada hai.. He agreed had a sumptous daal Roti and Hopped in the truck for my sleep... Woke up middle of night 3.00am just because I was recreating Titanic (Jack - Rose) ambience inside their car Fog on truck shield My fingers were deep frosted Pain in my muscles aggravated coz of cold... I would have drank 6 teas in a span of 3 hrs before starting at 6.00 to Keylong..

Morning was fresh and when i saw the terrain during daytime Riverbed frozen cold and Steep heights I was relieved we did not make the mistake...

Reaching keylong and calling the rest of team They rushed to the mechanic where I was and we rushed to the Hotel rooms I was the happiest of them all to see the team again and Ready to go after LEH OUR TRIP FOR A LIFE TIME

: D

    Started from Keylong after servicing all the bikes, we changed all 4-clutch plates, as they were all gone back at Rotang pass. The roads were better from there, no rain, dusty road and rugged all the way, by 1pm when we reached Zing Zing Bar, which is a beautiful valley and the army, has a base camp there. The icy mountains on the road ahead were melting fast by noon, so we were stopped at the army check-post to be warned that the water level is about 3 feet high so we better turn around. We thought we could check it out so talked to army securities and rode up to the stream, there we saw many other bikers all foreigners waiting on the other side of the stream figuring out how to cross. Well never found any locals around there waiting so we were quiet sure it’s possible. The stream was not looking very deep but the current from up the mountains were quiet hard so had to figure out a steady path for the bikes before riding through with the fuel and the luggage, so decided to take a walk across the stream before the bikes went through. Well didn't want to be soaked in cold water for the rest of the day so had to take off all the thick cloths and cross with just the boxers. The water was freezing cold and I could feel every nerve under my skin. I managed to get to the other side, it was full of small moving rocks in one part under the water, but the surface was hard enough for the bikes, the water was there till my waist, came back the same way and waited for my legs to get warm again as it became blue by the time I got through twice. Got back into the gear and we took the bikes across the stream one by one. It was not easy with the weight of the bikes and the luggage and fuel cans we were carrying. It was much difficult than walking barefoot; the water current was not easy on the bike but got to the other side in one-piece quiet fast. And after that everyone waiting on the other side started crossing. After all the adventure, continued riding till we stopped, little after that, for lunch where we had dal chaval and Chowmeen. You don't have much of a choice there as all you get there is dal chaval, maggie, roti, chowmeen and momos. After lunch, headed to Sarchu, and reached there by sunset around 7.30pm. Day is longer here; sun rises by 5.30am and sets close to 7.30pm. When we reached Sarchu, my bike - which Navin and I was riding had its accelerator cable broken. It was too late to find a mechanic at that time, so stopped at Sarchu, where we stayed in one of the Swiss tents @550/head. Had really thick blankets for the cold and hot soup and water to keep the cold away. Sarchu valley was really cold. One of the coldest places we stayed in the whole trip. AMS started hitting some of us, drinking lots of water-helped control it and having Diamox a day lessened the AMS problems for the rest of the days. Got through the night with few hours of sleep and started the next day by 7am. Navin and I went first searching for a mechanic with the bike with a broken accelerator cable. It was a task to ride it with a broken cable. We found a mechanic in another large biker gang who we met at Rotang pass. Got bikes fixed and continued the ride. Decided to reach Leh by the end of the day. Ride was getting better as we got through the first two days, quiet an adventurous stream to cross and encountered some slushy roads. At Pang we stopped for a cup of tea and soon after that reached more plains by noon. There were hardly any plants or green from after Keylong.  More plains - a 40km stretch of flat desert with silky sand, recently they started tarring the roads, so some part of it was tarred. The roads in more plains were like continuous speed breakers.  Stopped for lunch at Debring - with dal chaval again. The owner of the dhaba had a gypsy and a kid hanging around, probably his younger brother, who was very enthusiastic about our bikes and the ride. He stayed with us and made sure we got the right food and joined us in a discussion of the road ahead. Left Debring after lunch, we had another 7 hours of riding time as sun sets at 7.45pm at this place. A few km down the road Sudeep’s and Rijeesh’s bike got a puncture. It was like in the middle of nowhere and none of the big trucks were stopping. Had to wait there till we got to stop a truck. Meanwhile Ashwin and Deepak went back to Debring to the dhaba guy with gypsy to get a mechanic. Rest of us waited it out asking all the truck guys to give us a lift but was of no use. Finally Ashwin and Deepak came back in a truck, they agreed to take it till Leh. Spent some time getting the bike on to the truck. Well it was really difficult to get it on this truck since it was the big Ashok Leyland truck and they refused to open the back hatch as it was loaded with large iron bars. So we had to literally lift the 180kg bike above our heads to reach inside the truck. Well with a little bit of trouble we managed to get it into the truck. Sudeep and Rijeesh traveled in the truck with the bike till Leh. Rest of us left there by 4pm, left with 125km to cover till Leh. Crossed Taglang la by 6pm. Taglan la is one of the highest motor-able roads in the Himalayas. Rode again into the dust-eating roads. Few hours down we hit the tarred part of NH1 where we got a feeling that we made it to Leh. And we finally saw a board that said 'WELCOME TO LEH'. Yes we made it to LEH. Had a feeling of achieving a Dream. Or a dream came true. Continued from there, and few miles later we reached Leh town by around 9.30pm. Almost all the hotels were full, finally we got some room in Hotel IBEX, right in the middle of the town. Crashed there after dinner. Had Naan and chicken curry for dinner, which tasted very good in the cold weather and after all the tireful riding. By then it was time for Sudeep and Rijeesh to reach. Tried calling Sudeep’s phone and it was not reachable. Send them a message about our location. After a while Rijeesh called at around 1am saying they have reached Leh. They joined us in some time. Was happy to see them. Called it a Day.  Well Sudeep and Rijeesh must have had a tough experience travelling in the big truck. I think it’s better to hear it from them what happened after we left them after Debring.( so I asked him to mail me his and Rijeesh's experience and this is what he had to say and mailed me from his phone at 1 in the night)

Sudeep P. 17/10/11 Chennai.

The truck cabin was warm and spacious, and felt very comfortable probably because we were riding for so long. The driver and his 'assistant' were friendly and told us some interesting trucker stories for a while. The view outside was the most spectacular on the route. For a moment I wished I was riding the bullet at such a scenic place..but glad I wasn't, because the roads here were among the worst on the whole route!

Clicked many snaps on the camera from inside the truck. Leh was about 100kms away and it was about 5pm now. The driver said he would reach leh by late night but warned us about uncertainties. I relaxed and rested for a while.

A shock came when we were just about to reach upshi, which was about 45kms from leh. It was about 7.30 pm now and there was a huge line of trucks waiting to cross a bridge here!  Apparently there was a checkpost there and trucks were weighed and officials had to be bribed before the truck could be let through! The truck driver gave us a estimated delay of about 2 hrs to waiting the whole night here! Meanwhile we saw the other biker group passing us here. They had to slow down here because of all the trucks. Managed to talk to the mechanic in the group about fixing the puncture on our bike. Unfortunately for us we did not have a spare tube and the spares with this group was on a bike which had aleady gone ahead :(  So we had no choice but to wait.

Luckily the gods showed mercy on us and after a wait of less than 2 hrs we were on the move again. The roads ahead were good and our progress was good now.

By about 9.30 pm the truck had to make a stop about 9kms from leh to unload some stuff to a monastery. Apparently it was a very old and famous monastery and we got a chance to see the place at an ungodly hour! Dropped off the stuff and managed to reach leh town by 10.30 pm. We decided to come back early next morning to unload the bike.

We got a phone signal here. We also expected our friends to be in leh by now wanted to get in touch with them. Strangely we couldn't reach any of the others by phone! There seemed to be no hotels open or other facilities available to stay at this time of night. We wandered about for an hour before finally getting in touch with the rest of our friends who managed to find a hotel We gladly went there and crashed for the night...it was a long day

   Next Day early in the morning Sudeep, Rijeesh and I went to get the bikes from the truck. Getting it off was bit more easy as we had some of the local people there to help us get it down, well of course we had to pay them and put it for service in a nearby workshop. Roamed around Leh for some souvenir and Ladakhi local food. By noon we left to Leh Palace from where you get a beautiful view of the city.  Leh Palace was built in the 15th century made of Bamboos and stones. Then from there we went to Alchi monastery.  On the way we saw the place where two rivers join - one from India and one from China join together and continue to form River INDUS which flows north-west. Then we went to ALCHI monastery, the oldest monastery build in AD 900 to AD 1000. Had to take a walk through a small passageway, with apricot and green apple trees on top of your head and some souvenir shops on the way. I bought some beaded chains, prayer wheel, and Buddhist prayer flags and got back to hotel IBEX and got ready for the next day ride. Bikes were all ready by then. Then at night Sudeep and I stepped out to the town and went to the famous 'German Bakery' and had a do-nut and a cheese cake made of yak cheese. They were really tasty and stomach filling. It’s amazing that they make such tasty food in such a cold region. Also shopped some T-shirts with nice captions for friends back home. We even send post cards.

     Hotels were 500/room and another 500/head for food and stay for 2 days. Said farewell to Leh and started riding back to Manali by morning and aimed at reaching Manali in 2 days. First stop at fuel station outside Leh, then at Uphasi for a tea. Met a few other bikers riding to Leh, in a line about 10 of them. Wished them luck and continued the journey. Since we traveled this stretch at night while coming to Leh could not see much of the landscapes. Stopped near a stream that looked like heaven. Very beautiful, left there and stopped at Debring at the dhaba with the guy with gypsy and Chottu. Left from there and next pit stop at Lachang La, another high altitude pass above 5000 meters. Continued riding down with ease. Reached the stream, which was difficult to cross in the onward trip. It had less water as it was not late afternoon, so we could do it with just our shoes removed. Reached Sarchu by 10pm, the sky in Sarchu that night was amazing. You could see the 'GREAT DIPPER' constellation and the Milky Way, making the sky beautiful and lot of shooting stars. Got a tent with beds, for Rs.100 each, near the check post. One of the best nights of the trip - with all the stars and clear sky. As we have been there a few days back did not feel much difficult to sleep that night. Started early next morning, left for Manali after having some aloo parattas. Rode all the way till Keylong till next pit stop. Had lots of lemonade from Hotel Sumrila, as we were dehydrated. Left from there soon and stopped at Koskar for tea and some Veg and mutton momos. Then started to climb to Rotang pass in a single file, this time I had the opportunity of solo ride and I was riding the 3rd bike in the line and last was Ashwin and Tata Yo, rolled for a while with all four bikes together, where I could see the 2 bikes in front of me and the last bike in my rear view mirror. By around 6 when we thought we almost made it. The sun was great it was time for some photographs, Ashwin and Tata yo stopped behind me for the view so after another 2 more turns even I stopped for some pictures, meanwhile I could see the 2 bikes in front with Sudeep, Rijeesh, Deepak and Navin was heading for the top of the mountain to cross the mist before it catches us, it was long curvy roads where you could see the road all the way up to the mountain from where I stopped. After some beautiful shots I put the camera back and waited for Ashwin and Tata yo, 20 mts gone no sign of Ashwin and Tata yo, the gang that left in front also stopped half way through waving their hands at me from there, so I left that spot and reached rest of them leaving Ashwin and Tata yo behind. Ahead of me was Deepak with his bike having a flat tire. So all of us waited for Ashwin and Tata yo and a truck to put the bike in to take it down. Even after 40 mts there was no sign of hope of both. Later after about an hour both of them reached us. They had actually met with an accident; they went down the cliff for about 10 to 15 feet. Luckily the vegetation that you don't see much often in the route stopped them from going down further and they were safe and was stuck there till the army crane had come and pulled them up on to the road, and they reached us in close to half an hour.  

Ashwin Naik

"The Great Plunge"

Sarchu - The great valley midway to our journey to Leh was our pit stop for the day 2 "Return"

As usual we were all charged yet drained with the fact that we are nearing the end of our colossal journey. Only two things were going through our nerves - Ride as fast as possible to reach Manali before eve and the "Thump of Bullet".

Solo driver tag of mine was been handed over to Thomas for him to enjoy the last leg of journey. I had been given the french loaf to be carried till Manali. We started in a perfectly aligned group with another couple on a BULLET starting with us across. Wait we need to cross the Gushing stream of Blood cold water - Biggest stream across the journey before sun rises. Discussions were on who will cross the stream with bikes As usual i decided to take a back seat with crossing the stream through a climb on to the stones across. Mr ATFM as usual got his bike stuck in the stream and we had to pull him out All of these moments were imprinting like a offset printing press in my brain

As on the journey all of us were waiting for the Valley of death on our watch " Rohtang" . Each one of us had the same question will we cross before sun set

Before we started the descent to the valley of death our last Pit stop was at the place where i had a tormenting experience on the first day of journey with Mr Kalia... Those were my sub conscious haunting me But i had learned to accept the change in me All of us were hogging in whatever we could because some thing big was waiting for us across the hill " Rohtang".. From Momos to Kurkure's we were on rampage 

Deepak had learned the traditional skills of kashmiri people - Stiching quilts But stop he was stitching his raincoat for the slushy roads of rohtang..We started aroung 5.00.. Sun was having the last laugh of the day on us.. Wind was silent as if it was waiting for us to pass and roads were Barron to see how we cross the valley of death

Me and french loaf aka Tata aka Mr Benwa.. Were slowly starting our leg of journey.. As usual i did not want to race with time so we were the last to start at pit stop and Thomas thumping in front of us turning his head around the corners and checking through the rear view mirrors for the last of two rodeos 

(Bikers rule 2 -" Always keep an eye on the open road - And always keep both your eyes on the pal who is following you")

We were sailing on our bullets thumping the air with our fuel needles nearly dead.. Corner to corner, climb to climb we approached Rohtang. Benwa and me decided to take few last pics of our last sun set of the 10-day journey. Little did we know that Thomas was moving ahead and the rest of pack too?

For the next few corners we were all alone Thomas had gone on his bike. Rest of the pack way ahead. I was trying to catch up Though slow Along with the bike thump, my heart thump was audible 

"The plunge"


Trying to avoid a small stream i went to the corner which a biker should never do while driving doubles 

(Biker rule 5 - " Never be on corner tracks when you turn right with left being a drop, Vice verse ) 


Valley was full of vegetation with lush green plants. My bullet sided across were the stream had made the mud a little more loose For a moment it flashed i was going to go down another 1000 feet and sleep We both were calm Benwa was cool as cucumber grabbing the bike handle I had struck the gear so the vehicle tyre jammed and bullet was sliding down 15 feet and slept like a baby with lush green plants around us Benwa was quick to get up and go up I rather was worried about bike still sliding down... But no.. The vegetation was so thick they held me better than a mother holds her baby

Slowly i removed my legs below the bike climbed up Yes on the way I tried to push the bike through. Bullets are heavier when you are in trouble My efforts on vain Me an Benwa stood by the road clicking pics of the wreckage and awaiting any one of the pack to turn back and help us

10, 20, 30 40 mins passed we were alone I was pacifying French loaf that they will return when they see we are not trailing But no.. i was to be pacified after some time..

Suddenly our saviors of border - Army van was passing by to which i started waving and requesting for help A passer by biker on a pulsar also was captured by my drama Jawans got out Pulled the ropes Made the plan Went down the abyss Tied on the bike... One jawan on the push another on pull We finally roped up the bike

Jawans were very helpful and appreciative for their efforts for even checking on whether the bike was starting We had a bottle of water which we relished on just before the start from wreckage.

Biker rule 7 - " Always have a bottle of water in your backpack / bike " just in case.

We trotted with a mad laugh on our face to rejoin the pack. There they were almost after 30 min's of drive waiting for us We were charged to recite the story But wait they are not waiting for us to join them

The clouds were looking all dark and ready to pour, was not sure how long it will hold the rain. The mist was closing in fast and reducing our visibility to zero. Moved the bike little by little, filling the tire with the air pump. By then the first two bikes, with Sudeep, Navin & Ashwin and Beniot had already left to cross Rotang pass before dark. And Deepak, Rijeesh and Me stayed back trying to fix the bike and get down. Continued the drill of filling the punctured tire a few times but eventually stopped working after a while .We reached the decent after Rotang pass where the slush begins. Tire totally flat. Had no way out, there was mist so couldn't see the other person next to you, a flat tire and slushy roads. We were literally stuck in the middle of nowhere, And then it started raining, started pouring like crazy. Finally we decided to leave the bike there and walk back up to Rotang pass to seek help. Three of us with one bike riding down were not a great idea, so we walked up. Soon found a car coming at us and they stopped seeing us. It was a taxi with a foreign tourist. Well one of us had to go down with it to get a mechanic so Rijeesh took the taxi and we decided to follow him on the bike. Deepak and I on the bike following the cab, a while later when we hit the hairpin the bike would not respond to the brakes, the brake pedal was just touching down but bike didn’t show any sign of slowing down. Got through the first bend and I stopped, STUCK in the 'valley of the dead', No wonder Rotang pass is named like that. Well going down any further was not a gud idea, so turned back up to Rotang pass and decided to stay there for the night and start in the morning.  From the bright light of the bikes headlights we could only see the mist in front of us and not the road, Turned off the head lights and lit a torch and held it near the tire so could see the road next to the tire very close to us. We climbed a few kilometers saw a couple of trucks, which refused to stop because of the slush and the slope. Finally a jeep stopped, he agreed to take us and both the bikes. Put my bike inside the jeep in the rain then went down till where we left the other bike and loaded that too in the truck. I wish I could take pics but the rain was refusing me to take it out. Left from there, don't know how the driver found the road but he knew the road like he has been that way a hundred times. The jeep was going quiet fast through the slush and we were sitting behind the jeep holding the bikes. The ropes that tied the bikes did not hold them so well, and it snapped and we had to hold on to it.  The feeling inside the truck was like being in a ship that is going through heavy waves going up and down, bikes moving front and back on to you, you jumping to the roof and landing back down the rear half door we were sitting on. At a place right after he overtook a few lorry’s he put a hard brake and came to a sudden stop, actually that was when the bike moved front freeing my leg. Looking out to the front there was traffic piled up. Turned around to the back. We could hear a truck coming pretty fast but slowing down seeing us. Could hear the sound of the brakes but it kept on coming about 10 seconds to reach us we were quiet sure it would hit. But it stopped rite behind us I could touch the grills of the truck without stretching. About an hour later the driver stopped at a place where we met Ashwin, Sudeep,Beniot & Navin waiting there for us to cross the part of the road. But none of them expected us to make it till there. The driver said he was sorry for the rough ride till then but he could not go any slower as the jeep would get stuck in the slush and will be there the whole night. Then they said they will follow us till Manali as it was filled with mist. But again our driver was ripping the stretch though there was nothing to be seen in front of us other than mist and raindrops so we missed them again lucky the roads were good. They managed to ride the bikes down through the mist with great difficulty. Finally Deepak and I got dropped at Hotel Himgiri where we booked the rooms. Within 5 minutes the others joined us. Rijeesh was already at the hotel waiting for us to reach and celebrate our successful completion of the ride. This day was the most difficult day to ride and get to our destination. And finally we all got back safe and sound.

Caught bus to Delhi next evening and flight on Sunday to Chennai.

 It was one of the greatest trips of our lives.

Thing to remember if you are doing Manali to Leh on bike: Make sure you hire new bikes this year or the previous year model classic bullets. Should cost you around 2000/day this year. It saves you more time that you spend in fixing the bike on the way, though the chances of your bike getting a problem are very sure. AMS is a problem that you will be facing in high altitudes - Acute Mountain Sickness. Above 10,000 feet you get headache, breathlessness, vomiting, giddiness. Leaving it not cared gives you a terrible headache. Diamox is a good medicine to prevent AMS. Just have one before hitting the high passes in the morning, and also drinking lot of water is good. Carry all gear to keep you warm like thermal inner wear and jackets, gloves, woolen socks and windcheater keeps the cold breeze from hitting your body. Most important cover your head, hands and legs. Then you feel lot less cold. Booking early for stay at Leh and Manali will be good as there will be a lot of people reaching there for the summer. Carry all the medicines you need because it’s not just a fun trip, it’s a challenge too. Carry an ID proof if you would like to go to Pangong Tso Lake and Kardung La and other areas close to the Indian border, as you need to get the inner line permit from army office in Leh.

Cheers to all who had a great experience riding this route.

Thomas T Thomas